The OUT OF THE WAY Protaras

Protaras has a well-earned reputation as one of Cyprus’s most popular beach resorts, and Fig Tree Bay alone is enough reason to visit. But walk ten minutes inland from the Strip, and a completely different Protaras reveals itself — one of dry stone walls, wildflower scrubland, free-roaming donkeys, and ancient cave churches tucked into the hillside. This is the Protaras most visitors never see, and it is well worth the detour.

Starting the Walk from Protaras

The walk begins right at the edge of the resort. From the main strip, head west towards the hills that frame the town — the limestone ridge is clearly visible from the seafront. Within minutes the tarmac gives way to dirt tracks, the noise of the resort fades, and you find yourself in open countryside with panoramic views back over the turquoise bay and across the Famagusta coast.

The terrain is gentle to start with, a loose track winding between scrubby Mediterranean vegetation. Shortly into the walk you will pass the grounds of the Panayia Church, which sits at the boundary between the resort and the hills above. A small informal donkey farm occupies the slopes nearby — the donkeys roam freely across the hillside and are entirely used to curious walkers. It is an unexpected and charming sight just minutes from the hotel zone.

The entire loop can be completed in two to three hours at a relaxed pace. Wear closed shoes, bring water, and go early in summer — the hillside has very little shade and temperatures climb quickly after 9 am.

Agios Seranta Cave Church

The highlight of the walk is undoubtedly the Agios Seranta Cave Church, a remarkable place of worship carved directly into the limestone rock face of the hills above Protaras. The name refers to the Forty Saints — Agios Seranta is derived from the Greek for forty — and the church is one of the most atmospheric religious sites in the Famagusta district.

You approach along a narrow walking trail that winds up through the scrubland. The cave entrance opens onto a simple but beautifully kept interior with icons, candles, and the cool silence that only a stone cave can provide. The views from the approach path, looking back down over Protaras and the Mediterranean, are among the best in the area. Admission is free and the site is open to all visitors; please dress respectfully if you intend to enter the church itself.

Also along this stretch of the trail sits the small Agios Ioannis Chapel, a traditional whitewashed Cypriot chapel that marks one of the waypoints on the route. It is modest in scale but perfectly placed against the rocky landscape, and worth a photograph.

The E4 Long Distance Trail

The walk above Protaras follows part of the E4 Long Distance Trail, the European hiking route that stretches from Portugal to Cyprus. The Cyprus section passes through the hills east of Protaras, and even a short stretch of it offers a genuine sense of the island’s rugged interior — a landscape of grain fields nearing harvest, olive trees, and low stone outcrops with lizards darting between the rocks.

For visitors who want to extend the adventure, the E4 continues inland towards the villages of the Kokkinochoria region. Even walking just the Protaras section, you get a strong sense of why this trail has become popular with serious hikers. The waymarking is clear and the route is easy to follow from the edge of the resort.

Practical Tips

• Best time to go: Early morning from April to October. In winter and spring the hills are green and the temperatures are ideal for a longer walk.
• What to wear: Sturdy walking shoes or trainers with a good grip. The trail surface is uneven in places.
• What to bring: At least one litre of water per person, sun cream, and a hat. There are no shops or cafés on the trail.
• Duration: Allow 2 to 3 hours for the full loop including time at Agios Seranta and photo stops.
• Difficulty: Easy to moderate. The ascent is steady rather than steep, and suitable for reasonably fit walkers of all ages.
• Getting there: The walk starts on foot from the centre of Protaras — no car needed. If you are staying further along the coast, a short bus ride into town puts you at the trailhead.
• Combine it with: A private guided tour if you want local context and a guide who knows the trail’s history, or pair the morning walk with an afternoon at Konnos Bay — one of the most beautiful coves on this stretch of coast.

The out-of-the-way Protaras is not a secret exactly — locals have always known it is there. But for the average visitor who arrives for the beach and leaves without ever venturing inland, this short walk offers a completely different perspective on a resort that has far more to it than meets the eye from the sunbed.